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|La Iguana Golf Course at Los Suenos Marriott Ocean & Golf Resort has a unique and often dramatic setting. (Courtesy of La Iguana G.C.)|
For all the political and civil unrest in Central America over the past few decades, a golf trip to this volatile region may sound about as enticing as mountain climbing in Afghanistan.
That is, unless your destination is the diminutive, exotic, tropical, affordable, and most importantly, neutral, country of Costa Rica. Major golf destination? Probably not.
But "major" is overrated, don't you think?
If there is an untapped golf retreat of the western Hemisphere, it's Costa Rica. The exchange rate will have you living like a king, the scenery is unmatched, and the country's small sampling of golf courses goes beyond respectable. Moreover, Costa Ricans -- Ticos as they refer to themselves -- dote over American tourists, and not once during your visit will you feel out of place, uncomfortable, or in the least bit intimidated.
Unless its standing on the first tee of one of Costa Rica's oceanside layouts.
Golf is a relatively new endeavor in Costa Rica, where eco-tourism has reigned supreme for years. If you want to play the course where it all began almost 29 years ago, head to Melia Cariari in San Jose and tee it up at the George Fazio-designed Melia Cariari Country Club.
Melia Cariari Country Club is a par 71 layout, and was the first 18-hole facility to open in this bucolic country. The course is sits on an old coffee plantation, and is a shot-makers delight with its tight, tree-lined fairways. The course, built on hilly terrain, plays to just over 6,500 yards from the tips, but is still well respected as one of Costa Rica's most challenging tracts.
By law, Costa Rica is required to set aside one quarter of its land mass for nature preserves and National Parks. As you can imagine, the country's beautiful, sometimes rugged coastline is a target of a great deal of this legislation.
Robert Trent Jones Jr., known for his ability to craft memorable courses within the context of strict environmental laws, was hired by the Spanish hotel chain Melia to build a 650-acre seaside resort and golf course along the Pacific Coast in Guanacaste Providence.
Reserva Conchal Golf Club was the project that emerged from the commission, and it may be the only golf course in the world that can claim monkeys in play. That's right, monkeys. Jones was not permitted to hack down any of the property's Banyan trees, which are, incidentally, home to the indigenous Howler Monkey. If you think sinking a 10-foot putt to win a skin in front of three playing partners is nerve-racking, try draining a long roll in from of Cocoa the monkey.
The course was built over a period of four years and according to many writers and players, is well positioned to become the best layout in the country. At just over 6,500 yards from the blue tees, Paradisus Playa is not particularly long, but the humidity of Costa Rica keeps distance in check by taking five to ten yards off each club.
If you want to shape shots and carve out doglegs, then Melia Cariari Country Club is your bag. If you enjoy a wide-open golf course that is as receptive to a driver as the locals are to "touristas," then Reserva Conchal Golf Club will be more to your liking.
Far be it from golf course architect Ron Garl to be left out of the Costa Rica golf fray. Garl, born and raised in Florida, is no stranger to warm weather and big game fishing, and Costa Rica has the best of both worlds.
Garl put his stamp on the Costa Rica golf scene with his design at Royal Pacific. The front nine at Royal Pacific is relatively flat and quite scoreable. A number of the holes on the walk out follow a river that borders the western edge of the course.
If you didn't get enough of the Howler Monkeys at Reserva Conchal, you'll get your fill here. The back nine plays through steeper geography and overall, is significantly tighter than the front.
Ted Robinson Jr. doesn't get the hype of a RTJ Jr. in the golf course design world, but the guy can flat out build a golf course. With La Iguana Golf Course at Los Suenos Marriott Ocean and Golf Resort, he has given Costa Rica yet another new track it can be quite proud of.
Los Suenos is bordered by the Pacific Ocean on one side and rainforest on the other. If you can honestly keep you mind on scoring, more power to you. The course is also endowed with a number of old, majestic trees that are not afraid to come into play. Los Suenos is one of the few courses you'll find that offers forecaddies. In typical Costa Rican fashion, they are paid according to their helpfulness on the course.
Don't forget some rain gear. Costa Rica is tropical, after all, and sunny days can turn to stormy weather faster than a par turns to bogey on a tough par 4.
September 2, 2003
Looking back, the sequence of events leading to golf in Pinehurst seems so fragile, so random, that you wonder how fate didn't take different twists and turns circa 1895. The Tufts Archives, located in the Given Memorial Library, tells the resort's unlikely story.
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