Speyside Golf Whisky Trail is one of a kind

SPEYSIDE, Scotland - Golf & Whisky. What a marvellouscombination. I was in my element sitting in the Quaich Bar at theCraigellachie Hotel in Speyside, the epicentre of the Scotch malt whiskyindustry.

Surrounding me, covering almost every inch of wall space, were just under600 different single malt whiskies each offering a cornucopia of bouquets,notes and hints.

My knowledge of Scotch single malts was meagre compared to the youngAustrian couple sitting nearby. I was nursing a Glenallachie, a whisky fromAberlour just 2 miles away, while the couple were expounding with theJapanese barman the particulars of their personal collection - 180 bottles,a medium-sized cache in collecting terms but a spirited testament to theirinterest.

Jimmy, the Japanese barman's acquaintance with the subject wasspectacular.

"How did you get to know so much about Scotch single malts?" I asked himas he poured another Glenallachie.

"I am a PhD language student in Edinburgh and temporary relief here," hesaid. "You should meet the usual 'Keeper of the Quaich Bar' - TatsuyaMinagawa!"

Tatsuya was on holiday back home in Japan but his Quaich Bar has beenvoted "The Best Whisky Bar in the World" (Scottish Field magazine 2003),"The Glenlivet Whisky Bar of the Year - 2003 and the "Glenmorangie Hotel Barof the Year" 1999. In short, if you like whisky, this is the place tobe!

Jimmy poured me another glass, this time a 12-year old Glenlivet; ahoneyed, biscuit-sweet flavour with a malty edge. I was on a learning curvethat was somehow getting more curvaceous as the evening progressed.

"Our most expensive whisky is a 1945 Macallan at £175 a nip," Jimmy said,"There is a Dalmore reputedly at £26,000 per bottle - but its value is inits rarity. Drinking it would be like biting into old furniture."

I decided not to try any 'old furniture' and stick with the delightfulGlenlivet. I was warming to this work and reflecting on what a wonderfulidea a golf holiday in this particular part of Scotland was. We werefollowing the Speyside Golf Whisky Trail, a marriage made in heaven of twoof Scotland's most celebrated exports, in a region that can only bedescribed as scenically stunning.

Speyside is renowned for offering the best of Scotland: its food, maltwhisky, Highland landscapes, salmon fishing, shooting, skiing, hiking and ofcourse golf. Our itinerary took in seven superb Scottish Highland andcoastal links courses as we followed the River Spey with the smell of peatfires and barley malt never too far away.

Our golf sojourn commenced at Kingussie Golf Club, an exceptionalHighland track with views over the Cairngorm and Monadhliath mountainranges. The first four holes are a formidable start before the course climbsand presents a mixture of lighter but none-the-less riveting Highlandchallenges.

Harry Vardon completed Kingussie's design in 1908 and the route haschanged little since. Golf does not get more scenic than this and the courseplays as pleasingly as it appears.

Boat of Garten was our next port of call, a curious name for a Highlandvillage, given to it by a small ferryboat service that once crossed theRiver Spey here. Boat of Garten Golf Club is one of the most enchanting golfcourses I've ever encountered - playing over billowing fairways amidheather, gorse and birch.

And just when you think this sylvan golf nirvana couldn't get any better,a steam engine and its ancient carriages trundles past the 3rd, 4th, and 6thholes, hooting its arrival at Boat of Garten station.

These are echoes of golf's Golden Age when such a conveyance transportedVictorian holidaymakers to sample the then, as now, highly fashionableHighlands and its new golf courses. One hundred years ago the ScottishHighlands offered the ideal retreat from cramped city life with crystalclear air, gorgeous scenery and warm welcomes. Nothing has changed.

Coming to a 'spiritual' understanding of malt whisky takes time and youmust sample as many 'drams' as you are capable, comparing their delicatenotes and fragrant finishes.

More than half of Scotland's whisky distillers are in the Speyside regionand most are open to the public for 'educational' visits. The Glenlivet,Glenfarclas, Glenfiddich and the Macallan are all close at hand eachoffering a convivial and informative visitor centre.

Centuries ago, an illegal whisky distilling trade flourished here in thehidden glens and veiled birch woods of Speyside. A small still could be setup and just as easily dismantled should the excise man be making his rounds.The peat fires and pure waters used at that time established the uniqueflavours now expected of genuine Scotch whisky, so much so that no othercountry in the world has been able to emulate it.

Ballindalloch Castle Golf Club is a new 9-hole course set in the middleof whisky-tasting country. In spite of its young vintage already there areclaims that it is the best 9-hole course in Scotland. Designers DonaldSteele and Tom McKenzie must have been moon-struck when asked to create asuperlative 9-green/18-tee track with full USPGA greens in this absolutelystunning part of the Spey valley.

The greens, though still slow are perfectly formed and will come on, Ipredict, to be the course's outstanding feature. At a total of 6,417 yards(playing both sets of tees - quite effectively 18 holes), there is amplechallenge for the longest hitters.

The operation at Ballindalloch Castle Golf Club is integral withneighbouring Ballindalloch Castle, a charming, fairy-tale family home opento the public and one of the most successful tourist attractions in thearea. This relationship has leant an air of high quality and good servicewithin the golf club; the little clubhouse is resplendent with tartan rugs,a cosy atmosphere and good choice of drams for after-golf toasting.

The estate has several cottages for rent overlooking the golf course orwithin the castle grounds and they are worth considering for small groups orfamilies.

There are several more courses dotted along or near the banks of theRiver Spey as it meanders towards the Moray Firth. We played two others nearBallindalloch - Grantown-on-Spey Golf Club and Dufftown. Both were admirabletests with superb views and course conditions but it was Dufftown thatreally won us over.

It's a fun course, ideal for a less-serious outing in spite of two hillyholes to start. Once you are up, Dufftown presents a host of amusingchallenges with some spectacular views over this famous whisky-producingvalley - there are seven working distillers in Dufftown alone.

The clubhouse camaraderie is also excellent. To the north ofBallindalloch is the main market town of Elgin where you will find a superbinland test. Elgin Golf Club is a challenging heathland layout with a demandfor long accurate drives and precise approaches.

Only a few minutes north from Elgin is the town of Lossiemouth and herethere are two superb links courses. Like the Old Course at St Andrews, thecourses start and finish almost in the town. As links courses they areclassic, the Old offering surely one of the tightest finishes. The Newcourse has much smaller greens and in many ways we found it even moredemanding.

Moray Old and New offer a day ticket to play both at £55.00 which is goodvalue on two testing seaside links. One thing to keep in mind though is thatthe courses are located between the beach and RAF Lossiemouth's runway,which often entails fighter jets taking off and landing, rather noisily attimes - but not enough to spoil these two testing links.

The esteemed Nairn Golf Club is also within easy driving distance of thearea. Host to the 2000 Walker Cup, Nairn is a solid test of all aspects ofyour game and should only be considered by accomplished players. NairnDunbar, also in Nairn is a slightly easier yet challenging test at a morereasonably-priced green fee.

The Speyside Golf Whisky Trail is a wonderful opportunity to sample someof the best elements of the 'Home of Golf.' While the busier, more popular(and expensive) parts of the country such as St Andrews or East Lothianannually attract thousands of golfers, here is a region that is stillserene, a magnificent valley with most excellent scenery.

What I really liked about the courses in Speyside was their lack ofpretension; some were designed by members many decades ago and others havebig-name architects attached to their origins. But all have tremendouscharacter befitting an area that produces a spirit similarly full ofcharacter.

After golf, we ambled back to the Quaich Bar to discuss our game andcontinue our education.

"As newly-qualified whisky aficionados, there are some toasts you reallyought to know," Jimmy told us and proceeded to recite them.

And here they are, to help prepare you for your own golfing expedition toSpeyside and the Golf Whisky Trail.

The Selkirk Grace: written by Robert Burns, this is a graceoffered before meals at Scottish gatherings.

Some hae meat, and canna eat,And some wad eat that want it;But we hae meat, and we can eatAnd sae the Lord be thankit.

Here's Tae Us

Here's tae usWha's like usDamn few,And they're a' deidMair's the pity!

Off course

We stayed at Ballindalloch for a couple of days and got to know the areabetter. The castle and its gardens are a delight. The Haugh is an excellentplay area for children with an electric 00 gauge miniature train, the engineand carriages fashioned from whisky barrels.

There is the Lady Laird's Shop and Castle Tea Room. Trout fishing can bearranged through the castle on the River Avon that passes by theBallindalloch course and indeed the Spey, though this is one of the mostexpensive salmon beats in Scotland.

Shooting and deer stalking are also available and especially popular withcorporate parties.

Dining out

Only a few minutes away from Ballindalloch is the Minmore House Hotel(www.minmorehousehotel.com), with the most recommended restaurant in thearea.

This comfortable, stone-built country house stands amid the magnificentscenery of the Glenlivet Crown Estate in Speyside surrounded by 90 squaremiles of glens and moorlands in the Grampian Highlands. By good fortune itis right next door to Glenlivet Distillery.

Sitting in the elegant drawing room with cosy log fires sampling the mostBritish of institutions - afternoon tea (especially the unbelievablydelicious chocolate whisky and yoghurt cake) -we booked for dinner for thefollowing evening.

Let's just say Minmore House is a gastronomic gem, possibly one of thebest dining experiences in Scotland. The award-winning restaurantspecialises in fine Scottish produce using only fresh local ingredientsincluding vegetable and herbs from their own kitchen garden.

Oh, and the rooms are welcoming too.

The three hotels mentioned below contain some of Speyside's top restaurants. But there are others worth considering.

Lisi's Restaurant (01479 831339), on the A95 near Boat of Garten. Steaks,venison and wiener-schnitzel (breaded pork) served with an Austrianinfluence. The exterior and interior is intriguing, complete with beersteins and Austrian carvings - in fact there's wood everywhere.

Mount View Hotel (01479 821248) at Nethy Bridge. A one rosette restaurantserving modern Scottish cuisine with a nice touch of in-season wild food,such as fungi and wild vegetables with herbs from their own kitchengarden.

A Taste of Speyside (01340 820860), Dufftown. Nothing fancy but they buy the best and present it simply. Everything is cooked to order and portionsare generous.

Craggan Mill (01479 872288), at Grantown on Spey. Casual, roadsiderestaurant for lunch-time menu.

JJ's Restaurant (01479 870100), at Grantown on Spey. Casual, bistro typein middle of Grantown.

Where to stay

Did we mention the Minmore House Hotel? We did? OK, then try thesealternatives along the route as well: The Craigellachie Hotel of Speyside(www.craigellachie.com); Ballindalloch Castle self-catering cottages(www.ballindallochcastle.co.uk); The Boat Hotel at Boat of Garten(www.boathotel.co.uk); Chapelton Steading self-catering studio flats, atBoat of Garten(www.boatofgarten.com/chapelton).

February 27, 2004