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GOLF DESTINATIONS

Coast of Contrasts: Part 1 - Algarve West

By Carla Harvey,
WorldGolf.com Staff Writer

BURGAU (Oct. 7, 2002) -- A series exploring golf on the Portuguese Algarve begins along the western coast, where red cliffs and turbulent ocean present a dramatic backdrop.

The one hundred miles of Atlantic coastline features 25 golf courses. From Portugal's eastern border to the most westerly point in Europe at Cape St. Vincent, on Portugal's wild, western tip of the continent, the Algarve is one of Europe's premier golf areas. Clusters of golf courses are around the Portimao Albufeira area in central Algarve, with various courses beckoning to the east and west. Distances are such that hardy players could visit two clubs in a day.

On the other hand, much of the Algarve's appeal is attributed to its relaxed vision of life. So to get the most out of it, play it the Portuguese way by interspersing golf with visits to the inland towns, where arts and crafts and winsome people flourish. Savour classic Portuguese cookery and walk on a windswept beach or two.

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Portugal Golf

Golf etiquette is highly regarded in Portugal. Those of you who prefer super casual dress on the course, take heed and save yourself time and chagrin. It may seem old-fashioned, nevertheless it is so. Dress code on the Algarve and Portugal in general: nothing less than short sleeve shirts with collars for men and dress shorts. Jeans are forbidden, soft spikes are required on many courses. If you're caught not repairing a pitch mark, you may well be asked to leave the course. Forewarned, forearmed.

First, a tribute to Penina Golf, the first grass course on the Algarve. Designed by Sir Henry Cotton, The Penina (as it's known to devotees), was the designer's favourite course and the one he wished to be remembered for. Its opening in the mid-1960s gave a positive boost to the concept of establishing golf in this country. Upgrading throughout the years has assured Penina's continued excellence; it hosted the Portuguese Opens in 1998 and 1999.

There is no easing into the game here. Hole 1 is demanding with a dogleg left - a par 4 where kudos are fairly earned. If you started the game complacently, by the time you reach the second tee, alertness will have come to the fore in time to tackle a water hazard running along the fairway all the way to the green which is domed, undulating and has water in front of it. By the time players reach the 17th, the respite from full blown testing is needed. Although the last two holes are par 5s, neither is insidious.

Penina's 5-star Meridien hotel houses the Clubhouse; changing rooms, pro shop, etc. are open to visiting players. For those who cannot or wish not to play the 18-hole championship course, this complex provides a nine-hole resort course and a further nine academy course.

One of the Algarve's not-to-be-missed restaurants is nearby. Amadeus Restaurant features a European menu, live music, and BBQs on Wednesdays in a marvellous garden setting. Booking advisable. Tel: 282 471 832.

Algarve's golfing world has enthusiastically welcomed the opening of Boavista Golf Course. It is a sheer pleasure to look upon and to play. Low handicap players are eloquent in praise, one remarking that, "The Algarve is a golfing paradise; Boavista is a golfer's paradise." Designer Howard Swan has proved himself an artist on this course. One unusual feature is the fascinating incorporation into the course of the old ruins of cottages. Crumbling walls have been brushed and cleaned but otherwise remain untouched, forming oddly attractive natural hazards which amount to ingenuous sculptures reflecting a heritage. There are three of these on the course.

Hole 6 is definitely the course signature hole. There are three par 3s in the first six holes: number six is a sort of triumph of the par 3 concept: beautiful, short and tricky. The 13th hole is long and sloping with views of Lagos Bay and another noteworthy feature in the form of a stone bridge, copied with permission from the old course at St. Andrews.

Three 'villages' are taking shape along Boavista fringes. They are far enough distanced from the fairways to be unobtrusive and will thus avoid the deplorable sensation golfers have of playing through a real estate tunnel that occurs with high density construction. Golfers who thrive in the western Algarve may well find the ideal answer to where to have the second home at Boavista.

For a more complete report on Palmares Golf, go to http://www.travelgolf.com/departments/travelfeatures/portugal/palmares-golf.htm.

The first nine are links running along Lagos Bay. The first hole is a masterpiece of scenery put into play. Dunes, palms, the bay and immaculate greens combine to please. Lying five metres from the town of Lagos and its charming neighbour, Burgau, Palmares Golf makes an ideal base for those who want to explore the west end and its natural treasures. Don't miss dinner at Sally Vincent's Casa Grande in Burgau. You'll experience great food and a piquant sampling of local character. Closed on weekends and reservations are an absolute must. Tel: 282 697 416.

Parque da Floresta is the most westerly of Algarve courses, located 15 minutes from Lagos. This is a 'play with buggy or else' course, being hilly enough to cause palpitations in the fittest. Through valleys and hills with the Atlantic to the south, Floresta is a beauty.

Number 5 is a concentration trickster with a spectacular view from the tee. Give in to it and you'll likely find yourself in distress. Note the 14th, recently remodelled, architecturally pristine and a true tester of skills, not least putting on a green resembling a roller coaster. They say that if you play Floresta once you may curse it. Play it twice and you'll probably be hooked. Amenities include a state-of-the-art spa on site.

This course is close to Sagres, a town with very fresh fish, good beach bars and many coves for swimming. Cape Vincent, the southernmost tip of Europe is a few kilometres away. See the old fort and discover a dreadful modern architectural blunder. Superb views all around.

All Algarve courses are within an hour and a half drive from Faro airport. Where you golf is a matter of choice and it is a comfortable sensation to know that in this direction there is a lively social life and in that, seclusion and tranquillity. A hundred miles of contrasts and courses - that is the Algarve.

GOLF CLUBS

Penina Golf
Apartado 146, Penina
Algarve, Portugal
Tel: 351-282-415415
Fax: 351-282-415000
www.palmaresgolf.com
www.lemeridien-penina.com

Boavista Golf
Apartado 62 Lagos
Algarve, Portugal
Tel: 351-282-782151
Fax: 351-282-782150
www.emerson.co.uk

Palmares Golf
Apartado 74, Palmares
8600 Lagos
Tel: 351-282-762953
Fax: 351-282-762534

Parque da Floresta
Budens, 8650-060 Vila do Bispo
Algarve, Portugal
Tel: 351-282-690007
Fax: 351-282-690011
www.vigiasa.com